MAD about MILOS (and not for the reasons you're thinking)
Once obscure Greek island, albeit still a Kardashian-free zone, has become an unfortunate poster child for the perils of ovah-tourism
It was enough for me to see that one of the world’s most anodyne actors, Eugene Levy, had included Milos in his "Reluctant Traveler” series: wrong choice. Not because there’s anything wrong with Milos, but because this is symptomatic of how Milos has fallen prey to things like overtourism and social media distortion.
Recently, two tourists drowned at Sarakiniko Beach; according to a news report, a woman who works in a canteen near the “popular beach” told iefimerida.gr "I was not present at the incident. They told me that two people drowned. They are a couple, not very young. The girl climbed the rocks to take some photos and slipped and fell into the sea. She was swept away by the waves, you don't bathe on days like these. Then her boyfriend, her husband, jumped in to save her and they told me that they both drowned."
Now, let’s see what happens if you ask ChatGPT about Milos. Here’s some of what you get.*
Exploring the enchanting island of Milos, Greece
Milos, a stunning volcanic island in the Cyclades, offers a captivating blend of unique beaches, picturesque villages, ancient history, and vibrant culinary experiences.
Here's a guide to the top things to see and do in Milos:
1. Witness the extraordinary landscape of Sarakiniko Beach
Often referred to as "Moon Beach," Sarakiniko's chalk-white volcanic rock formations, sculpted by wind and waves, create a surreal lunar landscape. You can spend hours exploring its caves and arches, swimming in its turquoise waters, or even cliff jumping. Visit early morning or late afternoon for breathtaking sunrises or sunsets and to avoid crowds.*
The problem there, and it’s a big one, is that Sarakiniko is not really a beach. The first time I visited the spot nearly a decade ago, that realization tied for first place another one, namely that it is one of the most visually stunning places in Greece. But the cardinal rule of swimming is that just because there is water it doesn’t mean you should jump into it. The waters around Sarakiniko can be rough even on a seemingly calm day with mild winds. And it may be a California bias, but frankly, if there is no sand, it’s not a beach.
Maybe there is some sand somewhere at Sarakiniko, but I sure as heck didn’t see none. I remember a beautiful alabaster landscape that was worthy of admiration and a photo stop, but not suitable for touristic exploitation.
Thanks to social media, a stupid music video and now AI, however, it is being exploited. Social media in particular is hardwired to misrepresent — not just this place but any place. Tourists who are misled tend to do fooling things, like trying to swim in rough waters where probably no lifeguards are present.
As for the hotels in Milos, I was also not very impressed. Despite summer hordes of tourists, the tourist product is not nearly as developed as it is in say, Crete or Santorini. Mr. Levy stayed in one of those fancy new minimalist hotels that looks good on the ‘gram but in reality poses some challenges, such as access by steep unpaved road that may not be loved by everybody.
Yes, Kleftiko looks “amazing” on TikTok, but if it’s too windy, your boat isn’t going to go there, or much of anywhere. Yes, there are some actual beaches and they are nice. But they won’t blow up your Instragram. The food? Meh.
As I said, misrepresentation.
Don’t be reluctant traveler. Do think carefully before you plan a visit to an island based on the social media spillage of ingenues and other neophytes.
*Oh, here’s the rest of what you get:
2. Discover the hidden coves and sea caves of Kleftiko
Accessible primarily by boat, Kleftiko is an iconic pirate hideout on Milos's southwestern tip. Towering white cliffs and numerous sea caves invite you to swim, snorkel, and explore. Consider a boat tour that includes stops at other hidden gems like Sykia Cave and nearby islands.
3. Stroll through the charming villages of Plaka and Klima
Plaka, Milos's capital, is a maze of whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, and blooming bougainvillea, offering panoramic views, especially at sunset from the Venetian Castle. Klima is a traditional fishing village with colorful boathouses (syrmata) built into the rocks, providing picturesque scenes and a glimpse into the island's maritime history.
4. Unwind on the beautiful beaches
Milos boasts over 70 beaches, each with its unique character. Firiplaka offers a long stretch of sand and crystal-clear waters. Paliorema, located near abandoned sulfur mines, provides a unique and historic beach experience. Paleochori Beach, one of the most organized beaches, offers amenities and watersports. Firopotamos, nestled in a charming fishing village, boasts clear waters and a peaceful ambiance.
5. Explore Milos's rich history and culture
Delve into the island's past by visiting the Milos Mining Museum, the Catacombs of Milos (ancient burial sites), and the Ancient Theatre. The Milos Experience Archaeological and Cultural Experience offers a personalized guided tour to these significant sites.
6. Indulge in the island's culinary delights
Milos is renowned for its fresh seafood and traditional Greek cuisine. Enjoy romantic dinners at waterfront tavernas in Klima or sample unique volcanic dishes at Sirocco Restaurant on Paliochori Beach.
7. Embrace adventure and outdoor activities
Go sea kayaking to explore hidden beaches and caves, or rent an ATV to navigate the island's diverse landscapes. Consider a geological tour to understand the island's volcanic origins and mining history.
8. Consider a day trip to Kimolos
Located a short ferry ride from Pollonia, Kimolos offers a quieter escape with beautiful beaches and a picturesque main village.
Important considerations:
Milos is best enjoyed during the shoulder seasons (May and September) to avoid crowds and high temperatures.
While public transportation and taxis are available, renting a car or ATV is highly recommended for exploring the island at your own pace.
Some beaches, like Tsigrado, require a bit of adventure to access, involving ropes and ladders.
Milos promises an unforgettable Greek island experience, blending stunning natural beauty with a rich history and captivating culture. Enjoy exploring this hidden gem of the Cyclades!
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