SPECIAL STATEMENT on Cyprus: Is Aphrodite's island really in the crosshairs?
Middle East turmoil ripples to Cyprus amid widespread flight cancellations
Cyprus, the politically divided, geopolitically turbocharged island where Aphrodite used to frolic and that is home to two British sovereign base areas, has been called the unsinkable aircraft carrier of the Mediterranean.
That is true.
Also true are reports that airspace over Cyprus was closed, at least temporarily, on the morning of March 4 following reports of a possible suspicious object emanating from Lebanon that might have been heading for Cypriot airspace.
A government spokesman Konstantinos Letymbiotis later wrote in a social media post “the airspace of the Republic of Cyprus was not closed at any time” — because, as everyone knows, when you post something to Facebook that makes it automatically true!🙄
At least one flight, an Aegean flight from Athens to Larnaca, was reportedly diverted back to Athens before it landed in Cyprus. It was scheduled to take off again for Larnaca.
Reminder: Cyprus’s original Nicosia International Airport is a phantom airport, languishing in the buffer zone between the Republic of Cyprus in the south and the part of the Republic of Cyprus in the north that the Turks grabbed in their 1974 invasion.
The air alert followed authorization by the U.S. for its non-essential government personnel already in Cyprus to leave the island — of course, whether or not they can find a flight right now is another matter.
In any event, despite previous attempts by the Cyprus government to downplay any entanglement in the American and Israeli-led war on Iran, which has triggered Iranian retaliation, these events prove that Cyprus is indeed mixed up in the regional mayhem, as is to be expected — the presence of those British bases does make those bases (which are not tiny) targets.
That’s even the case if Iran’s real targets are the American strike groups (aircraft carriers) that have been positioned, as per Sky News, south of Cyprus:
Unlike the island of Cyprus itself, those aircraft carriers are sinkable, as is anything that floats, so let’s not sugarcoat it: the stakes here are pretty high.
The Cyprus economy is hugely dependent on tourism. The tourism season typically rumbles into life around or shortly after Easter, which is next month.
These times, of course, are anything but typical.
It’s possible that within an hour of this post, new developments make it as irrelevant as basically any new album from Taylor Swift.
We just don’t know — however, because we are big fans of little Cyprus (actually, again, not so little! At 3,572 square miles Cyprus is the third biggest island in the Mediterranean Sea) we are going to break you off your doomscrolling for a moment and invite you to think about planning a trip to sunny Limassol.
Yes, Limassol, also called Lemesos, the seaside city in Cyprus that is the island nation’s second largest after its divided capital of Nicosia (the Turks occupy the northern part, it’s a long story).
Cyprus made a robust emergence from its financial crisis a few years back. In this cosmopolitan port city travelers will discover audacious new high-rises and sometimes maddening traffic. The effect, frankly, is that of a more relaxed, sultrier version of London. And unlike many Mediterranean destinations that close up shop for the winter, Limassol powers through every season, sometimes with the help of some very tasty red wine.
It has serious wine clout.
In ancient times, red and white grapes indigenous to Cyprus were picked and sun-dried to make a libation that was said to be sipped by Cleopatra and eventually became known as Commandaria: a sweet red favored by royalty in medieval Europe. It got its name from the area in and around Limassol in the 12th century when the Knights of St. John ruled the roost. You can sample the wine at just about any bar or taverna in town, or venture out for a drive along one of the charming wine routes in the scenic foothills of the Limassol countryside.
There’s a young, creative vibe.
Limassol is a hybrid resort and university town, giving it a notably energetic and optimistic disposition. There are tavernas and cafés galore in the narrow streets where remnants of medieval and Byzantine fortifications mix with restored British colonial architecture. Vibrant street art adds plenty of local color, too.
You can hit the beach, even in winter.
The locals are proud to point out their city’s range of restaurants and cultural attractions, but happily there’s no getting around the fact that Limassol is also a beach town. The seafront is lined with beachside bars and there are plenty of spots for urban swims, even in wintertime if you’re up for it. Two great beaches just outside town include Lady’s Mile and Governor’s Beach, and the ancient theater of Kourion overlooks another gorgeous stretch of sand.
Aphrodite was born just up the road.
Though it’s not technically in the Limassol district, the lair of the original love goddess isn’t far at all. History buffs and hopeless romantics will be pleased to know that about an hour-long drive north along the coast will take you to the beautiful white cliffs where, according to legend, Aphrodite emerged from the sea foam to make her first appearance on land.
There’s a delicious food scene.
Turn on the radio in Limassol and you’re likely to hear everything from Greek, Turkish and Lebanese pop music to British DJs and Israeli news: and that eclectic mix is reflected in the culinary scene. There are traditional Greek Cypriot tavernas big on meze, along with swanky restaurants at the marina, Lebanese grills and plenty of contemporary spots that nod to the island’s heritage. One such is Karatello Tavern, a converted carob mill next to a castle built by Guy de Lusignan in 1193, where Richard the Lionheart married Berengaria of Navarre. Try the rabbit with onions and traditional cracked wheat or the Karatello salad: a tasty mix of fried halloumi cheese, tomatoes and pomegranate in a carob syrup vinaigrette.
There are great places to stay.
Limassol has its share of newer boutique hotels, though an arguably better way to experience the city’s split spirit is to book a room at one of the resort hotels right next to the sea.
You might spot some dolphins this time of year — or maybe a few warships.
Cyprus, coveted by everyone from randy Romans to pasty Brits, was never short on drama.
